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Your Position: Home - Air-Compressors - Seriously purchasing two stager compressor for spraying - Woodweb
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Seriously purchasing two stager compressor for spraying - Woodweb

Aug. 04, 2025

Seriously purchasing two stager compressor for spraying - Woodweb

Short answer: depends on your air requirements. Is it just you, or will your compressor have to feed 2 helpers blazing away with air sanders? Also depends on what kind of gun or pump you'll use. AAA pumps like the Kremlin EOS don't use a huge amount of air, considerably less than an HVLP gun & pressure pot in my experience. A rule told to me by a compressor salesman (so take it with a teaspoon of NaCl) is that if your compressor is kicking on more than 6 times per hour, you should move up to a screw compressor. As for moisture control, you could start with a dessicant type like the Devilbiss CT30. Not as expensive as a refrigerated dryer, but not as effective either. Depends on what your climate is.

You will get efficient and thoughtful service from Mandiwi.

Just in case my response was a bit too cryptic...a quality used 5-7.5hp reciprocating 2 stage, 3 phase air compressor from your local craigslist are usually a great bang for the buck, 50-80% off a new one...I have used my $300.00, 30 year old one every day for 7 years without issue and my bet is that I will retire before it does.
I live in a fairly dry climate (even when spraying all day, all I drain from the tank the next morning is a couple of ounces of water) so because of this I have only needed to use a high quality oil/dirt filter and a moisture filter for trouble free spraying.

Some other information for you. I would agree with the other post that you're probably way over buying for the size of your operation. I personally heard several times from our compressor rep that if you over by and you put a screw compressor in for a shop and it winds up barely running that it's actually worse for the compressor then you can imagine and you can have problems. Screw compressors are made to run a lot. And if youve got a shop where you're spraying just by yourself that compressor is probably almost never going to cycle depending on the tank size.

I'd agree with the other posts about a large two-stage recip. We have four men in the shop we've got a Quincy 7.5 hp 80 gallon running around 27 cfm's at 175. We have a refrigerated dryer and a really expensive coalescing oil filter. I don't think we could outrun the compressor if we tried.

In my opinion, if you're spraying, quality of air as opposed to quantity of air would be more your concern. I'd invest in a good refrigerated dryer a modest compressor and good filtration before I'd ever go to a screw.

A rotary screw compressor is meant to run. It likes to have load on it. When it cycles from loan to unload is when it has the chance to put oil in the lines. Depending on the machine it will unload and turn off eventually. Probably not right for what you are doing.

I like used equipment sometimes. Depending on the machine it is a no brainer. Like a shaper, if it looks OK, bearings are cheap. A compressor I am a little leary of. Did they change the oil? We have sold our old compressors as we have grown and we keep meticulous records of maintenance. When we sell the machine one of the photos provided is the maintenance record. I think it adds value. Beyond that there is no way to know.

For you a compressor is the heart of the operation. It goes down you are down.

As others have said, clean dry air is important. Don't skimp on the treatment of the air.

Good luck.

Alright, now I'm starting to get this organized in my mind. I believe I'm going to go with a Kremlin 10-C18. My new question is what size air compressor do I need to supply it?

Of course, I want to get something quiet like a rotary screw but someone mentioned that if it's not running all the time damage might incur to it. As you know I'm a one-man band and I only spray about five days out of the month.

Hello Bruce and Thank you for getting back. There's a lot of information I would like to learn from you. I've been studying your pictures and the things you have mentioned especially the Kremlin fluid heater!! I also agree with you about the Kremlin15C25. Lately I've been spraying a lot of white base, pigment lacquer and of course every once in a while I spray conversion varnish and acrylic paint. When I get everything together I would like to chat with you so that I can learn how to create a set up like you have. But for now I like to continue chatting with you and the group concerning the purchases I will be making it very soon. Thank you!

Bruce, the one from Lowes is the one I'm going to buy. I have two questions for you.
Which of the two fluid heaters do you have?
Kremlin HeatStripper Paint Heater or the Kremlin One-Pass Paint Heater. Now referring to the picture you posted of your 15C25. What is that vertical stainless steel shaft with the gauge on top. It is located to the left of your 15C25 connected by a nipple with the blue hose going into it that is coming from your paint heater? What is it and the manufacturing model number.

no need for a two stage compressor, second stage only raises the pressure rating of the compressor, so just a thought more pressure less cfm , less pressure more cfm so if you can find a deal on a single stage you are much better off, their is nothing in your shop that needs more than 100psi, in fact if you want to save the life on your compressor turn down the pressure switch and your machine will cycle much less and last longer.

as far as pumps, i have moved away from kremlin, parts too expensive and now their are many good systems to choice from, binks, cat, graco etc, i have had them the work just fine, but not worth the premium they get, when it comes down to it, i get a good finish and my spare parts cost is less but everyone has their own opinion.

be sure you put a regulator near the outlet of your compressor, set it at 90psi and don't skimp on the airline size that you use, ie spiral hoses and 1/4 inch air lines that is where you lose a lot of air pressure

also be sure to put a particulate filter afer the decissicant dryer because the dust from the beads can and does go downstream towards the gun

good luck

herb j

Bruce, thanks for that info.

Bruce, you have two filters to the left and right of your Devilbliss CT-30. What are they? And may I ask you for another picture of your complete set up so that I can follow the hoses coming out of the compressor and finishing at the gun. I don't want to ask too much but I hope this is possible. Just want to make sure when I order everything this coming week it's all done properly from filters, hoses and others. Thank you!

I would seriously consider the slightly bigger 5 hp 80 gallon vertical 220v.

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https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-80-Gal-3-Cylinder-Single-Stage-Electric
-Air-Compressor-C801H/

We ran this compressor in the small shop for 10 years. If you read the cfm and have a bit of experience you will realize how quickly a hi transfer gun will drain the tank. If you are spraying a kitchen its often necessary to give the compressor a rest when spraying lots of cabinets. The compressor would get really hot.

80 gallons is not that much tank.
60 is way smaller.

Adam, Thank you for your input! I believe I'm sold on the Home Depot Husky. I looked at it yesterday at Home Depot and I can see what Bruce was talking about as far as heat dissipation. It has three separate pumps spread out to dissipate heat. I'll probably will be picking it up this week along with the ordering of the Kremlin EOS 15C25. I just decided I'm going to use the 50 foot of copper pipe from the compressor outlet to the Kremlin.
Thanks again!

Well, I pulled the trigger.

Kremlin EOS 15C25 wall mount with pump outlet filter. 668-140-001
06 & 09 fluid tips.
One pass heater. 056-151-110
DeVilbiss CT30.
ARO series 3/4 regulator. To be installed roughly one foot from compressor.
Quantity 2: ARO P-610 filter regulator piggyback 1/2’’ NPT 172 CFM
Husky 80 gallon air compressor.
50’ schedule 40 PVC with brass ball valves for drains.

I plan on installing 50 feet or more of cool down pipe between the compressor and the first piggyback filter regulator. I'm going to buy a hand truck and amount 3/4 inch plywood to the back and base of the hand truck. On the back of the hand truck I'll set up the Kremlin rig and for the base of the hand truck a place for 1 gallon and 5 gallon buckets.

Thank you group for all your help and pointing me in the proper direction. Hopefully now I'll be able to spray perfect finishes without looking. hehe!

just wanted to add something, under no circumstances should you use pvc pipe, although I know I will get a lot of push back here, it is not allowed by osha, the other reason is it will soften in the pressence of compressed air oil vapors, yeah I know it says it will take the air pressure etc and I know most will say I have never had a problem but let me tell it pvc used on airlines will shatter like glass, causes a very loud boom, so just my two cents.......know of a shop who got sued for having it when a worker was injured when it popped., found this quick info, but other stuff is also out there

good luck
herb j

Plastic pipe used for compressed air service must be designed for such service by the manufacturer. Examples of such pipe include high-density polyethylene (HDPE) and Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene (ABS). Compressed air piping systems that use plastic pipe must also be “project speci c” – i.e., suited for a particular application or project – and installed by a competent person.
Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) pipe must not be used in compressed air systems unless it is buried or encased.

herb j, thanks for your concerns and point well taken. The PVC is just temporary for about a year or so and after that I'll replace it with something better when I have time. For right now I was just trying to save some money because I spent so much and of course I'm going to want to get some more tips, a gun rebuilding kit and so on. I'm going to readjust the pressure so that it only builds to 100psi. No need for 150psi. Thanks again for checking in!

To all members in this thread please reply back to this. Yesterday my 80 gallon Home Depot, Husky air compressor motor burned up within 30 seconds of starting. Yes the wire was done by a qualified electrician. Without going into detail about it I would like to know from everyone what exact compressor they are presently using for their Kremlin? (I'll be using Kremlin 15C25 with one pass fluid heater) After the incident yesterday I spoke to a qualified air compressor dealer who would like to see me with a Gardner Denver but he only stocks 60 gallons ones. I'm not sure if 60 gallons is enough because before I spray each piece I like to airgun the product a little bit just before spraying. Please reply back and let me know what you are using and if you think a 60 gallon would do it. The Gardner Denver 60 gallons that I'm thinking about getting is not two stage. Thank you group!

Mike,

Good news on the compressor. Make sure you follow the directions on changing the oil. I would take another deep breath and reconsider the pvc. There is a reason why so many people on ww warn about the dangers. You will have 120psi in a tube that is usually tested by plumbers at 10psi. If it holds 6 psi overnight its good for drain pipes in a house.

In my personal experience, if it goes on the wall temporarily it will remain in service until it either breaks or we move shops.

No pvc. Buy anything else. Lengths of black iron pipe, copper, or pex plastic. You could go to homie dopie and buy pex and sharkbite fittings if you can't borrow or own a pex tool. 3/4" is the go. id is what matters.

Well group everything came in today. I just have a couple questions about the pump and what these outlets are for and a black hose on the gauge housing? Here's three pictures with a pointer showing what I'm talking about. One looks like a bleeder valve but I don't know what it's for or how to work it. The other one looks like a breathing port but I'm not sure if anything connects to that either. On the bottom left corner of the gauge housing there is a black tubing. What is that for? Please let me know what they are because I cannot find any literature about them at all. Thank you!

Bruce, thank you for that. I'm glad you mentioned oil reservoir. No I did not start it yet and I'm not going to start it until I know for sure everything is done right. Kremlin does not send any directions but only CDs and two of them are broken. I called Kremlin tech support and Kyle me the directions but they are just pictures without any written instructions. Very weird considering the price of these units. Anyway I'm going to call Kremlin right now and ask about the oil in the reservoir. It's funny I un-screwed the reservoir screw and nothing came out. Glad to see you back! I'll send pictures later on today of the unit hooked up with my makeshift handtruck.

Well group I took your advice and everything is hooked up but not running yet. I'll go through all the pictures directions and maybe a few more questions with you guys before I start it up. But anyway I feel very confident I hooked everything up properly and even kept the lowest id air pipe size no smaller then 3/8'' right to the air inlet at the Kremlin. Here's some pictures for ya.

Bruce, they are some nice presents I bought for myself. A lot of money spent but I know it's well worth it. In a short period of time I'll swab out the PVC. Yes I filled the oil reservoir up today and I understand what to look for now.

I'm not sure what wire is the hot wire in this picture. These are the wires for the paint heater. Can you tell me which wire is the hot wire? The green wire with the yellow stripe I'm sure it is the ground. The blue and brown wire I'm just not sure which one is the hot.

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Picking A Compressor - Southern Polyurethanes Forum

So I have read other threads about choosing a compressor. I’m looking to upgrade my current 80 gal single stage. The rings are leaking and I’m getting massive amounts of oil blow by. It also doesn’t keep up with my blast cabinet. At any rate, I was all set on a two stage 80 gallon but considering working in my garage, the lower dB’s of a scroll is enticing. It seems like unless you go massive on them though, the cfm’s suffer. I have also heard that maintenance on the head is costly. If I go piston it will have a factory mounted after cooler and I will pair it with a stand alone chiller. My goal is to eliminate as best as possible oil/water vapor in my lines. I have a motorguard toilet paper filter and desiccant filter of the tank and then a 3 stage sharpe filter setup and then a motorguard oil filter in the booth.
So my question to the group who have way more knowledge than me, help me spend some money. My budget is max $4,500.00 I need first and foremost volume for the blast cabinet and spraying with hvlp’s and clean air for the hvlp’s and my gema powder coating setup. Quiet is an added bonus. Has to be single phase. Do I go scroll/screw or piston? I have narrowed the piston choices down to a Ingersoll Rand Type 30 7.5-HP 80-Gallon or a Quincy Quincy QT MAX 7.5-HP 80-Gallon. Either would be matched with a chiller.
Thoughts, ideas or recommendations are sincerely appreciated. I have the IR 7.5 no real complaints but if I had it to do over again I'd go with a Quincy or a Champion. The lower the rpm's the compressor runs at is an indication of whether or not it's a quality machine.

This one is Made in the USA and probably the one I get when I need to replace my IR 7.5.

https://www.shopcompressor.com/champion-air-compressor-advantage-series-7-5-hp/
I have the IR 7.5 no real complaints, but if I had it to do over again, I'd go with a Quincy or a Champion. The lower the rpm's the compressor runs at is an indication of whether or not it's a quality machine.

This one is Made in the USA and probably the one I get when I need to replace my IR 7.5.

https://www.shopcompressor.com/champion-air-compressor-advantage-series-7-5-hp/

I have one at home bought 22 years ago, have blasted two full frames over the years change the oil every year with moble 1, replaced belt twice.
Two at plant bought around both been perfect, never changed belt but change oil with moble one every six months.
My new screw compressor, I have only heard it kick on twice, so it does not run all the time. And the 7.5 hp is replacing the two 7.5hp, and he said I could replace both with a 3hp 30 gallon, so total cost dollars.
And I don't know compressors, but compressor world guy did so I went with his recommendation except for size. They're in Boston or close to. @Barry bought my first IR 7.5 around that same time. . It lasted 15 years of hard service at my first shop (sold it to the guys that took over the shop when I left in ). That's why I bought the 2nd one. Like I said no real complaints but the build quality is definitely not the same as in . Think they are cast in India now and the quality isn't the same. If I knew that when I bought it (online) I would have gone with the Champion. But like I said no real complaints other than the noise. Just a footnote how much I learned in this process.
I talked to a lot of compressor guys that knew what they were talking about and one was telling me how good the Quincy was, and the Eaton and my comment was I thought they were crap, and two different guys said most companies that sell wholesale and to industrial have two different machines and never buy one from a big box store.
I don't know if right, but it makes sense to me. Barry,
it is not just compressors! The big box stores have models made just for them, that are not sold through the normal supplier network. They are intentionally designed to look like the top quality models sold to the industry, but are a cheaper price point! Just look at a John Deere riding mower when you are at Home Depot some day. Then look at a mower at a John Deere dealer, and you will see that while they both may be painted green and yellow, there is a world of difference in the machines. I bought a Deere right at 30 years ago, and it has a water-cooled Kawasaki engine and is built like a tank. It cost over $ 30 years ago, but it has never had anything done to it but tires, belts, batteries, oil and filter change, and coolant change every 5 years. It has never failed to start, and I have never regretted spending the money. You look at the machine they sell at HD, and it is only about $, but it will not be running 30 years from now! I have been through a number of compressor in my 60+ years, but I am absolutely positive that the Curtis Compressor I bought over 15 years ago, will be the last compressor that I will ever need to buy.


Regards, John McGraw

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