Door Hardware 101

When shopping for door hardware, here's some basic information you need to know.

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• Make sure the hardware will work with your door thickness. A thickness of 1 3/8 inches is standard for interior doors, while 1 3/4 inches is standard for exterior doors.
• Note the hardware's required bore hole size: the diameter of the hole in the door. Replacement hardware needs to fit your door, and hardware for a new door requires a hole saw in the correct size. Typically, deadbolts need a bore hole 1 1/2 or 2 1/8 inches in diameter. Levers and handlesets usually need a hole 2 1/8 inches in diameter.
• If you're shopping for replacement hardware, check the required backset. This is the distance from the edge of the door to the center of the bore hole. The most common are 2 3/8 inches and 2 3/4 inches, but some hardware can fit multiple backsets. Make sure the hardware you select fits your door. For more help, see Determine the Backset of Your Door.
• Notice the latch or bolt configuration. Round-corner and square-corner configurations have a plate surrounding the latch or bolt on the edge of the door. Hardware with a drive-in configuration has no plate. Purchasing a replacement lockset that matches the current configuration simplifies installation. You can also find hardware that works with multiple configurations.
• Make sure the hardware is right for the application. Entry hardware provides security for exterior doors. Privacy hardware has a basic lock and is used on doors for bathrooms and bedrooms. Passage hardware works for interior doors that don't require locks — closet or family room doors, for example. Dummy hardware can serve a decorative purpose — matching operational hardware on double doors — or can serve as knob or lever pulls on interior doors that don't require functional hardware.
• When looking at an entry door lock, also known as a lockset, check the security grade. The American National Standards Institute (ANSI) designates three levels. Grade 1 is the highest. Grade 2 offers mid-level security, while Grade 3 provides basic security.
• You can typically have multiple entry door locks set (keyed) to work with the same key. However, you may not be able to do this with locks of different brands. Locks with do-it-yourself rekeying let you configure the lock without removing the hardware from the door. This feature can be helpful if you've lost a key and want to assure it can't be used to gain entry to your home.
• Look for designs that resist attempts to defeat an entry lock, such as picking, bumping, prying and drilling.

Keyed Door Knobs

Door knobs are a common version of keyed entry hardware, offering traditional design and operation. They feature a latch that disengages when you turn the knob. Locking the knob prevents the latch from being disengaged from the outside without a key. The inside portion of the knob has a thumb turn to lock and unlock the door. Some models feature easy-to-use push-button locking on the inside and locks that disengage when you turn the inside knob.

Keyed Door Levers

Door levers are designed for easy operation; they don't require the grasping and twisting motion of knobs. Pushing the lever down disengages the latch. As with knobs, locking the lever prevents the latch from being disengaged from the outside without a key. The inside portion of the lever has a thumb turn or push button that allows you to engage the lock. Some models disengage the lock when you manipulate the inside lever, offering a simpler means of exit.

Door levers are left-handed, right-handed or universal. To determine what you need, look at the door from outside the house or room. If the hinges are on the left, look for a left-handed or universal lever. If the hinges are on the right, you need a right-handed or universal model.

Keyed Deadbolts

Deadbolt locks create a second locking point for your door when paired with a locking knob or lever, giving you an additional measure of security. Some knob and lever sets include deadbolts. There are two types: 

• Single-cylinder deadbolts require a key to unlock from the outside but unlock with a small knob or thumb turn on the inside. They're good for doors that don't have glass that can be broken to allow operation of the knob from the outside. The design allows you to unlock a door and exit your home more quickly in the event of an emergency since you don't have to locate the key.
• Double-cylinder deadbolts require a key to unlock from the outside and the inside. They improve security if the door has glass near the lock, but they can take longer to unlock and are prohibited in some areas for some types of buildings. If you use a double-cylinder deadbolt, keep a key in a designated location for easy access in an emergency.

Keyed Handlesets

Handlesets add a bold, decorative touch to an entry door. They include an exterior handle, a thumb-operated latch and a matching deadbolt. A knob or lever operates the latch from the inside. You can find handlesets with right-handed, left-handed and universal levers. The included deadbolt may be single- or double-cylinder, depending on the model. Manufacturers may offer matching, nonfunctional (dummy) handlesets to complement the functional hardware on a double door. If you're replacing a handleset, look for adjustable models that make it possible to use the existing installation holes in the door.

Other Door Hardware

There are other types of door hardware available to improve security:

• Door and door jamb security hardware strengthen vulnerable areas of a door and door frame, making it more difficult for an intruder to kick in the door.
• Door viewers, sometimes called peepholes, are sets of lenses that install in an exterior door to give you a wide-angle view of the outside.
• Night latches help secure your door and can only be operated from the inside.

Door Hardware Finishes

Door hardware is available in finishes to match or help define your home décor. Polished brass finishes work with many home styles, and you can find pewter and brass finishes designed to provide an antique appearance. Look for brushed metals for a contemporary look and chrome hardware for modern appeal. Some finishes are designed to change their appearance with wear.

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Door hardware 101: Parts, types, standard dimensions & more

Door hardware might not be something you think about every day, but it’s helpful to know the correct terminology when you’re talking to a professional. Whether you’re looking to update your home’s curb appeal, need to replace some old hardware or just troubleshooting, our helpful guide to door hardware will make the process easier by giving you the right language to use.

In this article, we cover:

• Door Hardware Grading

• Common Types Of Door Hardware

• Parts Of A Door Knob

• Parts Of A Door

• Standard Door Hardware Measurements

What are the levels of door hardware?

Product grade levels are a standard defined by the Builders Hardware Manufacturers Association (BHMA) and the American National Standards Institute (ANSI) to help consumers select the right hardware for their needs.

The current ANSI grading system has 3 grades and indicates more about the hardware than just security:

• Grade 1 - is the highest performance

• Grade 2 - moderate performance

• Grade 3 - basic performance

Where a piece of hardware falls on the ANSI grading scale is determined with extensive testing in the following 6 categories:

• Operational

• Cycle

• Strength

• Security

• Material Evaluation

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• Finish Tests

The BHMA grading system is simplified for consumers and rates locks with letters A, B, or C based on security, durability, and finish. The best possible BHMA grade is AAA.

Common types of door hardware

The basic types of door hardware include:

• Door Knobs/Handles - The mechanism that enables you to open and close the door is called a door knob, handle, or lever depending on the type of hardware you have. Learn about the most common types of door knobs & handles.

  • What are the parts of a door knob called? The essential parts of a door knob include:

    • Escutcheon - general term used for the decorative metal plate around a door handle/knob

    • Latch Strike Plate -this is the metal plate that is on the frame of the door where the latch enters to secure the door shut

    • Latch Plate or Face Plate - this is the metal plate that is on the door surrounding the latch

    • Latch - the piece of metal that extends from the door into the frame. This is what keeps your door shut and what is moved out of the way when you turn the handle or knob. Generally these are spring-action and will automatically extend when not acted upon or obstructed. The most common standard backset lengths of the latch are 2 ⅜ and 2 ¾

    • Spindle - also called plunger, tongue, torque blade; this is an inner rod that connects the knob/handle to the latch assembly

• Door Hinges - The mechanism that attaches a door to the frame, enabling you to open and close the door. There are different types of hinges, but generally there are 2 - 3 per door opposite the knob-side.

• Lockset - This term generally refers to the components that make up the complete assembly of the lock system, including the lock mechanism, knob or handle, keys, strike plate, face plate, and other accessories.

• Deadbolt - The part of a lock that extends from the door into the frame, engaged by turning a key or knob on the lock, rather than by the action of a spring.

Parts of a door

• Kick Plates - A protective covering at the base of a door to prevent damage from shoes.

• Door Frame - The supporting structure around a door, consisting of the jamb, sill, and head

• Door Jamb - The vertical piece of the door frame running along the side of the door

• Door Head - Sometimes called head jamb; refers to the top of a door frame that sits horizontally above the door

• Sill - The bottom of a door frame that sits horizontally against the floor

• Threshold - Also sometimes called a saddle, this is the protective covering for the sill and is usually sloped outwards to help keep wind, water, and other elements from entering

• Rail - The top rail, lock rail, and bottom rail of a door are the horizontal pieces situated at the top, middle, and bottom of the door respectively

• Stile - The lock stile and hinge stile are the vertical pieces of a door on either the lock side or the hinge side

• Doorway - The opening you walk through

• Mullion or Mull - The vertical pieces of the door that run parallel to the stiles, typically making up the middle of the door. There are multiple mullions on doors that have a lock rail interesting horizontally

• Door handing - The direction your door swings. This is important to know so you can purchase the correct hardware to fit your door. Otherwise, it may be misaligned, the handleset could be upside down, or the door may not close properly.

• Casing - The decorative trim around a door

• Weatherstripping - Material used to insulate the gaps around a door

• Astragal - The hardware that is used to seal the gap between double doors, different from the mullion because it is attached to the door itself

• Panels - The decorative square or rectangular pieces that site between the rails and stiles
• Sidelite - The thin window butted against an entryway door
• Door Sweep - Similar to weatherstripping, a small piece of material at the very base of a door that helps seal the air gap

Standard door hardware specifications

Your doors may differ from the standard specifications, so it’s always a good idea to measure the one you’re working with before purchasing hardware. It’s sometimes possible to modify parts of the door like the bore hole, though it’s much easier to make sure you know what size hardware fits your door before you buy. Other factors to consider are the materials your door is made of, for example, hardware needs for wood and metal doors will likely differ.

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• Backset - Most residential doors in the US will have a backset of 2 ⅜ inches or 2 ¾ inches. This is the measurement of the space between the center of the bore hole and the edge of the door
• Latch Plate Mortise - This is the term used to describe the indentation, recess, or pocket in the edge of the door where the latch plate or face plate sits. It should be just deep enough that the plate is flush with the edge of the door, while these are commonly cut during installation they tend to be around 1/8 inch deep.
• Face Bore or Bore Hole - This is the larger hole that contains the lock or knob/handleset assembly. Typically in the US these are 2-1/8 inches in diameter but can vary greatly depending on the type of door hardware installed.
• Edge or Cross Bore - This is the smaller hole that goes from the edge of the door to the bore hole, where the latch mechanism is housed. Again, these can vary greatly depending on the type of hardware being used but typically measure 1 inch in diameter for standard doors in the US.